PG, Pasties and the Pursuit of the Bean
Mon Ami,
There are times that try men's souls. Even the stoutest of Englishmen need certain things to keep their chins up, their upper lips stiff and their resolves firm. Centuries ago when first spreading the word, along with a touch of Unpleasantness, we needed nought but our shields, our swords and our stout hearts. Later when we pitched out tents and unpacked our campaign chests we needed boot boys and batmen. At the beginning of the last century when chugging across on the great ocean liners we needed only someone who could make an Old Fashioned and a valet, sometimes one and the same chap.
All right so drag yourself forward to the present, unpleasant I know but bear with me. What does a Young Turk and son of the Empire need now when let loose on the New World? A steamer trunk full of well cut suits and a rainbow selection from T&A? Certainly yes. Graham Greene and Ian Fleming? Yes again, there are no finer examples of how an Englishman should behave abroad. A picture of his Mum and an internet link to the Guardian? Well, yes to those too.
But, I hear you cry, if he's in the Far East surely he can go to one of the ex-tailors to HM's armed forces and get himself properly kitted out. The reach of the world's finest authors is unlimited so he's rarely too far from a purveyor of literary classics. An Englishman keeps is Mum's picture firmly imprinted on his mind. And even the darkest corner of this great earth has an internet cafˇ.
Had you cried so you would not have erred. And so I come to the point, hastily you might think but you'll allow me the occasional foray into brevity. What is it that a chap simply has to have, and has to have from Mother England? Something that can't be faked, mimicked, copied or re-created? I'll tell you shall I? (Yes do.)
Oh pish and piffle I hear some say. baked beans are made all over the world. Even in America. One can find them in any Bodago, Foodmart, Convenience Store or Seven-Eleven. What pray, is the big deal? Aha, well this is where we part ways with those outside our Commonwealth.
There are Heinz Baked Beans, and then there is everything else. Nothing, nothing at all is in the same class. They stand alone in the pantheon of fine foods. As you know I yield to no man in my worship of Le Gavroche, but what good is posh French nosh when you're hungover on the Upper West Side of Manhattan? It's true that Diners here in New York provide copious amounts of hearty fare at great speed and for minimal cost, but what's the point, really? If you can't taste the unrivalled glory of thickly-buttered white toast piled high with Heinz Baked Beans then you might as well throw in the towel.
After a mere six months here in the New World, having suffered the slings and arrows of outrageous fortune without basic necessities I vowed to find my holy grail. Bear in mind this was during the last century and the locals were a good deal less enlightened. Anyway I set out to find sustenance and would accept no substitutes. I trawled the bars, pubs and caffs that claimed some link to the Seat, but all to no avail. As the day passed I became weak, light(er) in the head. I saw Bobbies on the beat on every corner. There were red telephone boxes complete with tart's cards and dubious puddles. Cars were driving on the correct side of the road. In short I was delirious.
And then it happened.
From my prostrate position, bent and weary, I spied the Union flag. It couldn't be, I told myself. After all I was in the heart of Greenwich Village. Another hallucination surely. But it didn't fade. It grew larger, the image stronger. My back straightened, my eyes grew clear, my upper lip stiffened and my chin rose up. For, and this really is the point, I had found what I needed, nay, what I craved, and it had a name. And that name was Tea and Sympathy.
Sing out heavenly angels! Tea and Sympathy - a small and perfectly formed English cafˇ providing everything a chap could want from home. 'What's the matter darlin'? You missin' your mum's cookin'?' was the cry. And yes, truly I was. I tucked into Heinz Cream of Tomato soup, Cornish pasties, mashed potatoes and yes, Heinz Baked Beans on thick and heavily buttered white toast, with a liberal coating of HP Sauce. Washing the lot down with PG Tips tea and following it with Treacle Sponge and Custard I was at last a happy man.
Not long afterwards the kind souls who ran the place opened a shop next door called Carry On Tea and Sympathy, thus allowing a chap to cook Baked Beans in the comfort of his own home. And it didn't stop there. Next they opened a chip shop called of course A Salt and Battery. And if that wasn't enough they bought a Black Cab to park outside. Sitting in T&S on a rainy Sunday, tucking into roast beef and Yorkshire Pudding, drinking tea from flowery china and staring out at the Cab you could almost be at home.
It brings a tear to my eye even now to think of that poor wretched boy, fresh off the boat and utterly Bean-less. How he suffered. So now it is my duty to inform my fellow expatriates of the life giving sustenance that this oasis provides. Christmas Crackers, Alan Partridge videos and Union flag tea towels are at my fingertips. What else could a chap want?
Yours contentedly,
S