A Life in Boots
Dear Boy,
When we spoke at the mobile telephone the other day, you were somewhat ribald in your comments vis a vis the boots I had just purchased. I was wounded deeply by your assertion that motorcycle boots should only be worn by 20 year old podium dancers at clubs called 'The Fudge Tunnel' and then only with a white jock-strap and a light basting of oil and sweat. I retired to my study to consider the path my life has taken in re footwear and, by way of mitigation, I now share with you my recollections.
I am told that, as an infant, I wore bootees knitted by doting relatives and soon graduated to Start-Rite T-bar sandals. Time has drawn a felicitous veil over these things but, if my Mother is to be trusted, I was adorable in both.
The first time I became involved in what marketing Johnnies refer to as a 'Purchasing Decision' was at junior school when peer pressure made it imperative that I wore Clarks Commandos. I'm not sure if you remember them but in a world where school uniform shoes were governed by a proscriptive legal framework, Clarks found a way to introduce concealed distinction to those lucky kids who could afford them. An impossibly exciting motif of animal tracks was moulded onto the soles and, concealed beneath the lining of the heel, was a small, working compass.
No matter how bored I have been on aircraft, I have never succumbed to reading Andy McNab, Tom Clancy or any other species of Special Forces Porn. I am thus on somewhat shaky ground when I opine that no SAS trooper or Delta operative, after six weeks living in a hole in the ground, pooing into a Ziploc bag and drinking his own sweat, ever set his bearings for a four-day forced march by checking under the heel of a size 5 3/4, width fitting F, black lace-up school shoe.
At the age of eight though, I believed it. In fact, this was the origin of my compulsive superstitions about footwear. I've never liked shoes that, aside from covering the foot, are designed solely for fashion. Mine must always have a rigidly defined function and preferably associated with some immensely butch profession. The shiny, low-vamp loafer is an abomination (unless you consider driving a Taxi in Lagos to be an enviable calling), whereas the climbing/diving/hunting/fire-fighting/trawling/flying boot confers upon the wearer some of the stature of the men for whom they were originally designed. The slim-fitting office brogue, no matter how spit-shone, looks like the slipper of an effete Regency dancing master and, even when worn by the most terrifying captain of industry, speaks only of bald shins and calf length black lisle socks.
I'm sure I would have eventually come to realise that my Clarks Commandos had a more spurious military pedigree than Prince Edward and this would probably have cured my fetish - but I was never to have that chance. Mum said she couldn't afford them anyway and so, to my everlasting shame, I was sent to school wearing something in a duck shaped two-tone with a crepe sole. Maybe they looked great on Showaddywaddy but they made me want to open my veins.
From that point on my life has been measured out, not in Prufrockian coffee spoons but enormous boots.
In the sixth form, people went big on pixie boots. Adam Ant had a pair and I figured that piracy was a manly profession but the grey suede pair I got from Freeman Hardy and Willis turned out to be a fashion error of staggering proportions. Far from the raping, plundering terror of the Spanish Main I looked like a malnourished Disneyland elf. Fortunately, as it transpired, they were also very expensive leaving me only £7.50 to pick up a pair of pre-worn, Belgian paratrooper's jump boots from Millets'. They curled up at the toes, took two pairs of socks to stop my feet sliding around inside and looked like they'd seen about fifty years of active service in a swamp.
They also smelled, from the day I bought them, like the feet of a conscripted agricultural worker from a town just outside Bruges with no running water and quarantined for epidemic Tinea Pedis. But they were beautiful. Tied up fully, with a double twist of lace around the ankle they fitted under uniform trousers giving off just enough 'Fuck You' attitude to convince the Lower School that you were a tasty punk at the weekends but not so much that you'd get sent home. (In hindsight, I may have given off mixed messages. The boots might have said 'Teenage Kicks' but the long hair, the slim volume of Shelley and the plaster covering the earring disagreed.)
The boots took me through summer working as a cook in a sweaty hotel kitchen and, on the first day at art college finally came into their own - half laced with shredded jeans tucked into the top like the Annie Leibovitz portrait of Matt Dillon.
They lasted another six months. This was felicitous as it took me seven months to persuade anyone to undress me. The boots rotted away and girls appeared. Could these things have been related?
My next pair was bought in a general store somewhere in the Appalachians. Other people had discovered Timberlands so it was important to find something distinctive. The fact that they were called 'Logger' boots was a good start. The fact that the tongue contained carbon fibre strands designed to jam your chainsaw blade before it bit into your shin was a real deal-closer. I walked out of the store a clear inch and a half taller, several hundred dollars poorer and hobbling in pain. Maybe, if I'd actually spent six months clear-cutting in the Ozarks I may have been man enough to break them in. Instead, I just suffered them for three years and four hundred and seventy yards of fabric plaster. I finally gave them to a bum in Charleston who couldn't believe his luck.
"Whoa! Thanks Buddy"
"No, really. It's me who should be thanking you"
"Whatever"
He's probably in a wheelchair by now.
There was a brief affair with a pair of cowboy-style lineman's boots. I was swayed by the soles; guaranteed to earth me completely, at 40,000 volts, when wet. I was not prepared for the fact that they made me look like a Bon Jovi fan before such things were ironic or amusing. I also learned that cowboy boots say 'I'm a sexually inadequate short bloke trying to look taller' even when you're 6'1".
Moving back to England required something more urban for which a quiet pair of ankle length Caterpillar boots sufficed. Soon, though, I graduated to jobs that required suits. At first, with tweeds, I affected ghillie boots mail ordered from Scotland followed by Mssrs Tricker's gingerest brogues, customised, at great expense, with a specialist Vibram(tm) cleated sole. Killing things in the country is butch enough, I think. When tweeds were out of season, R M Williams boots, though poleaxingly expensive, retained enough Jackaroo credibility to meet my exacting standards and I went through two pairs.
Eventually, though, I was beaten down. A couple of years ago, circumstances forced me into a complex act of sophistry and I convinced myself that the suit wearing professions had a certain rugged chic of their own. This enabled me to purchase 'Chukka' boots from Church's in black leather and brown suede that lasted me as long as the suits required them.
Now I don't have to turn up at the office any more. My suits hang in the wardrobe like the sloughed skins of a corporate vampire only to be revived for meetings where I have to demand money with menaces. My Church's boots live on trees, in bags, and are seldom bothered as I have comfortably reverted to type. I feel I deserve my Chippewa(tm), steel toecap, oiled leather, Vibram(tm) soled, motorcycle boots. They're comfortable, warm, functional and bikers are, after all, icons of practical, no-nonsense masculinity. Granted, I don't have a motorcycle - I think I had my mid-life crisis while I was still on a provisional licence - but the queeny Dutch guy at the leather shop assured me this wouldn't be an issue. As he pointed out with a predatory twinkle in his eye,
'These days, most of us just take taxis to the club'.